Phongsaly Province

Phôngsali (Lao ຜົ້ງສາລີ) is a province of Laos, located in the extreme north of the country. The capital of the province is the city of Phôngsali. Phôngsali is located between Yunnan (China), and Điện Biên Province in Vietnam. Its culture has thus been historically heavily influenced by China.

Phongsali Province covers an area of 16,270 square kilometers (6,280 sq mi), out of which 77% has forest cover. The province borders China to the north and west, Vietnam to the east, Luang Prabang Province to the south, and Oudomxai Province to the southwest. The highest mountain in the province is Phou Doychy with an elevation of 1,842 meters (6,043 ft) Protected areas in the province include the Phou Dene Din National Biodiversity Conservation Area and Nam Lan Conservation Area. Agriculture is the mainstay of the people of the province. Phôngsali is the primary trade gateway between Laos and China, exporting lumber and importing several types of finished goods.

Demographics

The population of the province is 165,926 as of the March 2005 census. There are 13 minority ethnic groups with independent language and culture identity: Khammu, Thai Dam, Thai Daeng, Yao, Leu, Hor, Hmong, Akha, Yang, Bid, Lolo and others. Each group has its own practices in respect to marriage customs as well as specific handicrafts, silverware and jewelry.

Languages

Other than the national language Lao, various minority languages are spoken in Phongsaly province, most of which belong to the Tai (Tai-Kadai), Hanoish (Tibeto-Burman), and Khmuic (Austroasiatic) branches.

Economy

Agriculture is the mainstay of the people of the province. Phôngsali is the primary trade gateway between Laos and China, exporting lumber and importing several types of finished goods. There are also several Chinese manufacturing companies in the province, along with other foreign investment.

As an economic activity 24 villages have been identified to install mini hydro-power projects with pico-turbines to provide electric supply utilizing the hydro power potential of the hilly areas which have good monsoon rainfall. Local material will be used for construction of civil works and villagers trained to plan, implement and operate the units including maintenance of all components of the project covering transmission lines also. The objective is to reduce poverty among the rural poor of the remote villages. The project is proposed for implementation at a cost of Euro 210,000 with 48% financing by the Energy and Environment Partnership (EEP) of Mekong with Electriciens Sand Frontieres as lead partner. The project is slated for implementation over a 20 months period.

In order to reduce the addiction to opium, the United Nations Organization on Drugs and Crime (UNODC) introduced the Phongsaly Alternative Development Fund Project for Opium Elimination covering 30 villages in Khoua and Mai districts, and also minimise opium addiction in 60 villages in Samphan district, through alternative development activities. During the final years of the 20th century, 3,872 ha of the province had opium poppy cultivation (20% of the national total production) with 513 villages out of 611 growing opium with an addiction rate of 5.6%. In spite of government ban on opium poppy cultivation, Phongsaly has the maximum number of districts below the poverty line, and is one of the major opium producing provinces in the country.

History

The Phu Noi left Muang Sing or Burma and arrived in Phongsaly at the end of the 18th century. The Hmong settled in Phongsaly at the end of the 19th century, having migrated from southern China. In 1895, a Sino-French treaty transferred the Tai Lue's Sip Song Phan Na principalities of Phongsaly and Muang Sing to French Laos. Between 1908 and 1910, the Tai Lue conducted a revolt against colonial authority. When it ended, the colonial military assumed full authority in Phongsaly. In 1936, Sithon Kommadam and his brother, Kamphanh were jailed in Phongsaly because of their participation in their father's (Ong Kommandam) 1934–1936 armed revolt against the French. After Sithon's release in 1945, he established resistance bases in Phongsaly, soon making contact with the Viet Minh. The Communists came into power in 1954 in the province; within six years, the Phunoy began experiencing Buddhist religious purges. Subsequent to the 1954 Geneva Accords, Communist Pathet Lao forces in Phongsaly province were provided with regrouping zones. Phongsaly was integrated into the Royal Lao Government on December 18, 1957.

Geography

Phongsali Province covers an area of 16,270 square kilometers (6,280 sq mi), out of which 77% has forest cover. The province borders China to the north and west, Vietnam to the east, Luang Prabang Province to the south, and Oudomxai Province to the southwest. It is located high in the mountains, approximately 450–1,800 meters (1,480–5,910 ft) above sea level. The highest mountain in the province is Phou Doychy with an elevation of 1,842 meters (6,043 ft). The Phou Fa hill, at 1,625 meters (5,331 ft), is near the capital city and has road access to the top from where vistas of the city are viewable. The top of the mountain is also approached by 431 steps. Because of economic commerce with China, large portions of the province have been deforested.

Phongsali is characterized by a relatively cool climate. Weather in the province is described as “four seasons in a single day” with cold mornings and evenings, humidity during the day, and rains in the afternoon, which has created lush green forests.

Protected areas

Large areas of the province’s forests in Phou Den Din NBCA have plentiful wildlife but no human habitation.

The 126,880 hectare Phou Dendin Important Bird Area (IBA) is located within the 222,000 hectare Phou Dene Din NBCA. The IBA altitude varies between 500–1,900 meters (1,600–6,200 ft) above sea level. Topographical elements include the Nam Ou River and its catchment, the area at the confluence of the Nam Khang River, mountainous terrain, and slopes. The habitat is characterized by unbroken dry evergreen forest and inland wetlands. Notable avifauna includes Blyth's kingfisher (Alcedo hercules), brown dipper (Cinclus pallasii), brown hornbill (Anorrhinus tickelli), crested kingfisher (Megaceryle lugubris), great hornbill (Buceros bicornis), lesser fish eagle (Ichthyophaga humilis), and rufous-necked hornbill (Aceros nipalensis).

Landmarks

Important landmarks in the province are the Wat Ou-Tai Temple, the Wat Luang Ou-Neua Temple and the That Phou Xay Stupa.

• Wat Ou-Tai Temple is in the Ban Ou- Tai village. It was built by Praya Chakkawattiraja and is said to be 500 years old. The Hor Thane Keo, inside the monastery, is a specific sanctum where Buddha images are deified. This sanctum is built with mud and has many types of decorations retained in its original form. The wooden columns of the shrine are supported over on stone blocks; these also have been elegantly designed and painted with drawings of daggers, swords, flowers and flags, and all carved in wood. There is a shrine built in brick masonry within the monastery complex which is called “ Ou Bo Sot” (meaning a place where monks meet and conduct religious rites) by the Tai Lue ethnic groups.
• Wat Luang Ou-Neua Temple is also an old and highly revered temple built about 500 years ago in Ban Ou Neua village. The temple has a double overlapping roof in the Lue architecture style and is very impressive. The temple is adorned with traditional fine art techniques and houses A large Buddha image and small Buddha statues are deified inside this temple.
• That Phou Xay Stupa is at the top of a hill, approached by walking up 400 steps.

Do

There is very little to do in Phongsaly. Just enjoy the natural surroundings, local people and the unique culture.

TREKKING IN PHONGSALY
The Phongsaly Tourism Office offers 1 to 4-day eco-trekking tours to remote ethnic diverse villages. All of them follow community-based ecotourism principles. You can start from Phongsaly, Boun Neua and Boun Tai. Mr. Khamphanh: +856-20-54284600 or +856-20 28449939, Tel/Fax: +856-88-210098.

Leave the world you know….
and let Akha people welcome you in their village with their traditional massage!

You are a nature lover? The Jungle trek (2 days) or Mountain & River Trek- 2 days offer you a wonderful nature experience, with overnight in an Akha Puxo village.

Tempted to combine trek & boat expedition? The Akha country trek (3 days) takes you up the Nam Ou far into the Akha Unique territory! Fascinated by ethnic diversity…

....activity with Akha people 1 Day to Discover Akha Puxo Culture
…and looking for an easy walk? The Mouchi trek (2-day) gives you the chance to meet the unique Mouchi people!
…and wanting to experiment akha farming? The Akha life trek (2 days) takes you to their field!
…and ready for a challenging hike? The Multiethnic trek (3 days) or Multiethnic trek (4 days) gives you an insight into the akha diversity: each night a different ethnic group!

Hotels & Guest Houses

Pinekham Douangnaly Guesthouse: Tucked off the main road next to the tourism office, the diabolically name Pinekham Douangnaly Guesthouse is a simple family guesthouse with a few rooms with TVs, big beds and hot water bathrooms with Western toilets.

Yuhoua Guesthouse & Restaurant: A Chinese family-run place, the restaurant and family home occupy the ground floor, while the guesthouse is upstairs. Rooms are small and simple but are clean, with fresh white bedding. Some have a private bathroom with squat toilet and hot shower, others have shared facilities with cold water showers.

Nangtarn Guesthouse: A simple place above a family shop next to the market, Nangtarn Guesthouse is a cross between the cheapest and most expensive hotels in town with hot showers but squat toilets, brightly lit rooms but old beds and free water but no free WiFi.

The Phongsali Hotel is a big, white, square concrete building in the easternmost reach of town. The lack of atmosphere starts from the outside but does improve slightly once you're in the door due to fresh paint and flatscreen TVs. Not only are stairways and corridors dirty, they are dotted with scary looking electrical circuit boards. Three standards of room are on offer: the cheapest are plain basic rooms with three beds and nothing else. Bed sheets are clean, and shared bathrooms with squat toilet and cold bucket wash are cleanish. More appealing are the midrange rooms with hot water bathrooms with Western toilets, great bedding atop what feel like slab sof concrete but are in fact spring mattresses and a desk and chair. These rooms really have been upgraded over the years and feel much more comfortable. A restaurant downstairs serves good Chinese food

Viphaphone Hotel: Diagonally opposite the Phongsali Hotel, in the eastern part of town, the three-storey Viphaphone is notable due to its yellow exterior. If cleanliness and comfort are your priorities, then there are better options in town. Rooms are large and clean, although the floors in some rooms need a sweep, and have comfy beds and a window with a view. Private bathrooms need bleach !

Phou Fa Hotel: The entrance to Phou Fa is made of dark grey stone which gives the place the atmosphere of an abandoned gulag, when in fact it used to be the Chinese consulate. High up on a hill near Phou Fa itself, it is well away from the main street and the minimal tourist amenities of Phongsali. Turn left at the junction in town and head up the hill. The road winds around until you hit a roundabout. At the roundabout take a left and keep going for a few hundred meters. The Phou Fa is the building high up on the left. The grounds are large but slightly unkempt and completely uninspiring. Rooms are well appointed but dark and tiny, and feature large beds -- twins or doubles made from two singles pushed together-- reading lamps and good quality linen. Private bathrooms have a hot shower and Western toilet. The best rooms have air-con, more modern bathrooms and ridiculous green carpet. The cheap rooms really do carry through on the gulag theme making this hotel poor value despite some redeeming qualities. The walk into town is about 15 minutes.

Transport

Air

Two flights a week are made in each direction between Phongsali and Vientiane. The one from Phongsali to Vientiane flies on Tuesdays and Saturdays at 11:40. Tickets can be booked in Phongsali at the Viphaphone Hotel. Vientiane to Phongsali flights leave at 09:30 on the same days and tickets can be bought at Lao Airlines or any travel agent. The flights take an hour and 40 minutes and cost around 990,000 kip one-way. The airport is by the town of Boun Neua 41 kilometres away. Numerous buses pass through Boun Neua enroute to other destinations and arriving at the Phongsali bus station at 07:45 to catch one of these will be ample time for the journey. Expect to pay 15,000 kip for the bus.

There have been recent reports that flights are no longer going to Phongsali with the situation seemingly changing on a regular basis. Agents in Vientiane have the latest information on this.

Bus

There are two bus stations in Phongsali. The main bus station is located three kilometers west of town on the main road, a 5,000 kip songthaew ride away. The other is in the far east of town, about a kilometer from the centre and services Hat Sa for the boat ride to Muang Khua.

The road from Phongsali to Boun Neua and a few kilometres beyond is a sealed road and is traversed with relative speed. South of here there is a road sealing project which has been going on for over two years now and only tiny sections are complete, meaning the vast majority is dirt and rocks and in everything but the dry season, mud and water. It is a treacherous journey and will take a minimum of nine hours to reach Udomxai. If there are problems along the way, extend that timing.

From Boun Neua it is possible to travel even further north to regions which are even more remote than Phongsali. The big issue in these towns is food or lack thereof. Travel here and expect to have a totally remote and local experience. Ou Tay is 93km from Boun Neua.

Boun Neua: leaving at Midday
Udomxai: leaving at 08:00
Luang Nam Tha via the back road: Note: even though this route has a price listed at the bus station, we were unable to locate a departure time. If this route is open, expect it to take in the region of 12 hours, greatly reducing the time when compared to travelling via Udomxai.
Vientiane: leaving at 08:20
Luang Prabang: leaving early morning
Hat Sa: leaving at 08:00

Boat

The trip up or down the Nam Ou River is beautiful, as the river is lined with mountains and punctuated with picturesque villages. To get to and from the river and Phongsali you have to go via Hat Sa, which is where the river port is. One songthaew a day heads in each direction -- from Phongsali to Hat Sa at 08:00 (1 hour, 12,000 kip) and from Hat Sa to Phongsali at 14:00 dependent on passenger numbers.

Two kinds of boats plough between Hat Sa and Muang Khua: fast and slow. Generally they will wait until the songthaew from Phongsali arrives before departing, but otherwise leaves when full without following any scheduled departure times.

The slow boat takes five or six hours (depending on the number of stops -- particularly to pick up catfish fished by the local villages on the river) and costs 105,000 kip. The fast boat takes about two to three hours.

While it seems that the speedboat is the obvious choice -- much faster for only 30,000 kip more -- in fact it is not. Particularly when heavily loaded, the boats are extremely uncomfortable. When the water is anything less than smooth as glass the contents (including human) bounce in a bone-jarring manner and you're so busy hanging on you'll have no energy left for looking at the stunning scenery.

The slow boat may not be luxurious, but at least a roof protects you from the elements, giving you time to appreciate the scenery with less noise and in more comfy seats. Fast boats are not always available.

If there are no imminent departures, it is possible to rent a whole boat, which will cost around 1,300,000 kip.

Source https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phongsaly_Province