Vang Vieng

Vang Vieng (ວັງວຽງ) (also Vang Viang) is a riverside town in Central Laos. The town has been known as a party destination for years, and whilst this still remains more outdoor-oriented activities are now available such as mountain biking, trekking, kayaking, caving, swimming and rock climbing.

Understand

Once little more than a bus stop on the long journey between Vientiane at the Thai border and the World Heritage Site of Luang Prabang, Vang Vieng has managed to become a destination in its own right – and rightfully so. While the town still isn't much more than three streets and a bus station, it is the stunning scenery of river and rock formations surrounding this place that will keep you dreaming of Laos long after you've settled back into real life. If you aren't into the rowdy party scene that seems to dominate this town's image, try to come in the off-season (Apr–Jun, Sep-Oct) and you'll have this place almost entirely to yourself.

Many who have traveled around South East Asia have heard about tubing on the Nam Song River, an activity that long-dominated the town and its visitors. Originally, the bars catering to tubers along the river were opened up by hedonistic backpackers. At one time, as many as 20 bars lined the river, with pulsating music, drinking games and drug-fueled debauchery becoming the norm. However, after 27 tourists died while partying on the river in 2011, the local authorities cramped down on drugs, shut down many of the tubing bars, put restrictions on the volume of bar's music, and removed riverside swings and "death slides." As of July 2015, five bars operate each day along the river on a two day rotation. As of December 2015, only one bar is in operation.

However, those upstream bars still have a profound influence on the town itself, which has an atmosphere of lethargy by day and debauchery by night. In town, tourists sprawl out in the pillow-filled restaurants called "TV Bars," watching re-runs of US sitcoms "Friends" and "Family Guy" until the sun goes down and then party heavily until the early hours. Free alcohol is served at many of the tourist-oriented bars in town, providing hours of free drinking for the frugal backpacker.

Please be a conscientious traveler not discarding your trash to pollute the environment. If you notice your fellow travelers attempting to discard their trash into the rivers and banks, give them the evil eye!

Vang Vieng may have established itself as the exception to the rule that Laos doesn't have nightlife. It does have potential as a base for adventure tourism which attracts a few more sedate foreign sightseers. However, whilst the main attraction for many visitors remains the tubing, it is easy to avoid the party scene and use the town as a base to explore the surrounding countryside.

Note: As of 2015, the tubing and party scene in Vang Vieng is absolutely nothing like it used to be a few years ago, when there were literately thousands of drunk/high youngsters at the dozens of bars tubing on the river every single day. Those days are well and truly over. Now there are only 4 or 5 bars and only a few hundred a day tubing on the river maximum. It is rumoured that the Lao government stepped in because of all the deaths and injuries happening on the river that were highly publicised in western media newspapers. So they virtually closed almost all the riverside bars overnight to prevent Lao's international image in Vang Vieng being damaged any further. As such, most the bars in the town of Vang Vieng itself have gone out of business and more and more close every week. Do not go to Vang Vieng expecting wild full moon parties and a huge party scene, because this just doesn't happen anymore. Gone are the restaurants/bars playing episodes of Friends/Family Guy 24/7: They do not exist anymore. That said there are still a dozen or so bars still clinging to the town's party vibe past: Bucket booze, psytrance music, an Irish bar etc.

To many, this is all actually a welcome change: Vang Vieng is now quieter like it used to be before the tubing really kicked off in the mid-90's. So you can enjoy the numerous spectacular caves, lagoons and adventure sports in the surrounding area without the all night raves and many drunk/high tubers severely injuring or killing themselves whilst tubing. Either way, don't be put off: Vang Vieng is one of the most beautifully scenic places in the region, if not the world, and there is plenty to do to warrant a week (or even more) here.

Get in

Vang Vieng is on Highway #13 between Vientiane and Luang Prabang - by bus (road and bus conditions permitting) about 6-8 hrs from Luang Prabang, around 3-4 hr from Vientiane.

Highway #13 is a two-lane road in fairly good condition except for a few bumps closer to the cities, nothing to worry about. The road between Vang Vieng and Luang Prabang is mountainous and boasts amazing scenery as well as worthwhile glimpses of Lao village life. The road between Vang Vieng and Vientiane is flatter and less interesting.

By bus

Tickets for tourist buses and minivans can be purchased at almost every guesthouse and should include transport to the bus station.

VIP buses from Vientiane cost about 50,000 kip (GBP4, €5, USD6). Minivans leave Vientiane all day and cost about 35,000-50,000 kip. The Express bus to Vientiane costs 60,000 kip (Feb 2011). Slower local buses to Vientiane without air conditioning run in the early morning (05:30-10:00) and cost about 40,000 kip for a 5 hour journey - you can board them either at the northern bus station or the bus stop south of the airstrip.

From Luang Prabang, VIP buses booked through agents in town cost 150,000 kip and minivans cost 120,000 kip (June 2012), you can purchase tickets directly from the Southern Bus Terminal, the VIP bus is 105,000 kip and minivan via the travel agent opposite is 110,000 kip (July 2013). If you're susceptible to motion sickness you'll be much better off on the slower bus than the minivan but it does mean a longer transit time. Buses from Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng stop at the Northern Vang Vieng Bus Terminal which is 2km from the city centre, tuk tuk's can take you to town for 10,000 kip each. Get off at Friends bar as you come into town and explore from there otherwise your driver will take you to his/her preferred guest house.

By taxi

Taxi from Vientiane airport to Vang Vieng costs USD 90 (Jan. 2015), for which one should buy a taxi ticket. It will take 3.5 hr without traffic jam or stop.

By rental car

AVIS has locations in Vientiane (downtown only - arrange free airport pickup ahead of time) and Luang Prabang (same). If you'd like to make the scenic drive independently and be able to stop and take in the scenery, two-day one-way rentals start around $200 (~$50/day with a good promo code + $100 one-way fee) + $40 gas (for the direct route). If you have more time, you could stop by the plain of jars too, which would perhaps add another day of rental and some more gas. Vientiane <-> Vang Vieng 3-3.5 hrs Vang Vieng <-> Luang Prabang 4.5-5 hrs (leisurely pace with multiple scenic stops).

Get around

From the bus station

From Vientiane, buses will drop you off either at the old airstrip (from the Vietnam War, it's now just a giant gravel pad) and the tourist buses will drop you in front of a hotel on the main street in town. The airstrip is directly behind the main street, so in either case there is no need to take a tuk tuk or cyclo if you plan to stay in the main area of town. The island and bungalows along the river are about a 10 min walk away. Buses to and from the North of Laos leave from the new bus terminal 2 km north of town. When leaving Vang Vieng, transport to the bus station is usually included in the price of your ticket.

Around town

Vang Vieng is so small that everything is easily reachable by foot. If you want to venture outside of town, bicycles are widely available and can be rented from hotels or local businesses. Most outfits charge 20,000 kip for a day's rental, however newer bikes in excellent repair may cost slightly more.

There are few Motorcycle rentals available near the river bank and at the main street - good selection of scooters for instance at M/c Rental (across the street and about 50 m East from Whopping Burger). You can rent a small semi-automatic scooter for 40,000 (morning to evening time) - 60,000 (24 hour) kip. Some Chinese dirt bikes (small 125cc 100,000/150,000 kip or bigger 150cc 150,000/200,000 kip) can also be found. Petrol may not be included in the rental fee, so check before paying. If not included, it's an extra 10,000 kip (Oct 2013) in a petrol station. Always check the condition of the bike and details of the contract before signing anything. At some places you will have to sign a contract which makes you responsible if something breaks or fails to function, even if it's normal wear and tear. If riding out of Vang Vieng to the surrounding villages, be very careful of buses, minivans and trucks, and take extra precautions against the poor road conditions. Gravel, potholes, mud puddles and other hazards litter the road, so it pays to keep your eyes on the road and not on the mountain scenery. Also you are not allowed by contract to go out of the Vang Vieng district, so don't count on renting a bike here to go on a longer tour of the district. But somewhere is possible to rent a bike and go all the way to Vientiane if you need to make a visa run for example.

Several tuk tuks are also scattered around town. 10,000 kip per person will be plenty to get to anywhere within Vang Vieng - it's also the price you'll pay to get to the tubing bars irrespective of how many other people are on board. It's better to sort out exact change with fellow passengers as tuk tuk drivers are notorious for giving incorrect change.

To rent a tuk-tuk for the day costs about 130,000-150,000 kip.

See

The town and surroundings are the real attractions, including the rows of limestone Karst Mountains across the river to provide a stunning backdrop and is the setting for some impressive caves.

• Tham Poukham - Blue Lagoon, (7 km west from town, maps provided where you can rent bicycles, accessible by mountain bike or motorbike. Be careful along the way, in recent years a number of imposters have shown up, all claiming to be the 'blue lagoon'. Keep to the main road and you should be OK). 8AM-6PM. A spring fed lagoon at the bottom of "Golden Cave". The lagoon itself is small, and surrounded by a parking lot, vendors, and construction. On most days, it is plenty crowded, with tourists practically landing on top of each other from the rope swing. Despite being crowded its beautiful and definitely worth it, especially to cool off. The waters are inhabited with a few hundred carp that will eat locally sold fish food out of your hand. The cave above requires a modest 100 m climb up a makeshift bamboo ladder. Once inside, there is a short walk to the Sleeping Golden Buddha and glimmering stalactites about 300 m further inside. 10,000 kip entry and 10,000 kip to rent a head-torch, mandatory if you go deeper into the cave than the Buddha (check the battery in advance). Guides for the cave advertised at 50,000 kip but this is probably negotiable. Guides probably not necessary since the path inside is well worn and marked in spots.  

• Padeng cave and Ring cave, (cross a footbridge over the river, follow the signs and white flags (garbage bags) on sticks through the field). Across the river a 1.5 km path marked by white flags cuts through the fields towards the limestone mountains. The smallest hill has very rickety ladders (which can be dangerous) to aid in climbing to the top. Halfway up the mountain is a cave. Another 1 km along the path past the mountain goes through a small forest and arrives at a cave. A few sleepy Laotians guard the cave's entrance and will initially only charge 10,000. However, on exit, they'll shake you down for 50,000 for the guide and 50,000 per lamp. A couple of guys carving reeds with machetes are nearby so negotiation may be difficult. Recommend avoiding. 

• Xang Cave, (on the south end of the main road. Turn right at the sign to Jam Mee Guesthouse). Decent cave but not worth the 15,000 kip entrance fee plus 2,000 kip per person/3,000 kip per motorbike bridge crossing fee. The cave is well lit and has stairs running throughout that makes it an easy self-guided tour. One part has a really nice view of the farms surrounding the city. If you've been to other caves it's really not worth it.  

• Nang Oua Kham Cave, (On the way to 'Blue Lagoon' turn left after Phone Ngeun village. There is a sign to 'Nang Oua Kham Cave, 8km'. After around 4km you come to an intersection where you turn right. The sign there states it's around another 4km. After about 3km you see third sign where you turn left. The last part is a small dirt road that leads to the ticket stand. Past there you will find some new facilities and the cave.). Well worth the trip it was more adventurous feeling and much more secluded than the one at Blue Lagoon. You might feel the entrance a bit tight at first but when you get past that most parts are easy to walk. In the end there is mud and water so be prepared with rubber boots or to soil your feet if you want to explore the entire cave. Price includes head lamp. Map coordinates 18°53'55.7"N 102°21'09.3"E. 10,000 kip.  

Do

• Tubing, (There is an office in downtown Vang Vieng that now monopolizes all tube rentals. They will rent you the tube and organize transportation up the river a few miles.). From around midday to 14:00 is reasonable to go because earlier everyone else would be still asleep. What was probably once a lovely experience has been more or less tainted by hordes of drugged out young foreigners with infected mosquito bites desperately consuming whatever alcohol or drugs can be found. Nowadays there are five bars all congregated at the very beginning of the river and no more swings or slides seem to be up. Some dry bags may not be of the best quality & so cameras can get ruined. To get the deposit back tubes have to be returned by 18:00, but be warned that the place will keep 20,000 kip if you arrive past 6pm. Also DO NOT hand over your tube or ticket without receiving your deposit as the place will take everyone's tickets at once, cash out a few people, and then claim they've "already" given you your money. Generally untrustworthy people all around, probably better just to go down river with your own flotation device you can buy in a nearby shop. Best not to deal with the tuk tuk drivers near the last bar if you can help it, either. In winter temperatures fall from 16:00, so start back early. Ride at least one rapid before starting the party to avoid disturbing guests visiting the Organic Farm. You can look at the magnificent view of the mountains rising directly beside the river, but the party scene has taken over and the owners use large loudspeakers, effectively blocking out any singing of birds. Beware of tubes getting stolen while stopping at bars. Tubes get stacked up at each bar so keep an eye on how many are left, especially at the first few bars where lots of people arrive without their own tube. If you're not used to drinking strong alcohol: stick with beer and for reasons of safety & common sense consider avoiding alcohol if entering the water. The amount of alcohol in buckets can be high, and the effect can kick in suddenly; you won't be the first one to be too drunk to make your way back on the river or to die on the way. During rainy season there is more water in the river and eye infections are common. Also, when you get back to town, please respect the local culture and wear more clothing than your swimming suit or bikinis only. 55000 kip for the Tube + 60,000 kip deposit. 

• Lao-style steam sauna. It's small like a toilet. And like a toilet divided into two parts-for men and women. Pairs with the smell of herbs (lemon grass). Wash under running water on the street. 20.000 kip. 

• Kayaking the river. This covers the same part of the river as tubing (and a more untouched part further upriver). Kayaking trip can include a quite exciting swim on the tube through a cave situated about 15 km from Vang Vieng and lunch. Some of the caves take more than an hour to walk through, with bats and other animals. A kayaking trip from 9:00 - 16:00 including swim on the tube trough a cave and lunch costs 120,000 kip (Feb. 2015). 

• Uncle Toms Trails, 2 (located now at Ban Naxou,Kasi,55km north of Vang Vieng town), Tel 856 (0)2029958903. Uncle Toms is a dirt bike tour operator offering tours of the beautiful trails around Kasi District. All new bikes, 125cc four stroke trail bikes; geared up to teach total beginners and packages for overnight. Prices are very reasonable, full day training now available with advanced bookings, please book ahead as only small groups catered for, Kasi is a non touristic town; real Laos accommodation available and can be included in a package with the training. 

• High swings. Playing on the very high swings over the river and sliding on a slide. Be careful: perforated eardrums, broken ribs, foot injuries and permanent hearing damage are common injuries, and deaths are not unknown. The local hospital is not equipped to diagnose or treat these serious injuries - Vientiane has the closest, if Spartan, ENT facility but no English speaking specialists, so you may have to travel to Udon Thani for treatment. You might have to rely on other tourists for rescue. Most of these swings and slides have been taken down.

• Rock climbing. There are walls suitable for first timers and professionals. The established climbing outfits in town are Adam's Climbing School (N18° 55.355 E102° 26.784) and Green Discovery. A new shop opened in 2012, Central Climbers, managed by seasoned climber Nom.  

• Hot Air Ballooning. A flight over the surrounding countryside with stunning views.

• Teach English to rural kids with EEFA, (Phoudindaeng Village, 4km north of downtown; office is located at Vang Vieng Organic Farm), Tel 020 78008555. Equal Education For All (EEFA) believes that in order to improve the system we must start by improving it locally. EEFA believes in building from the bottom up one village at a time. Volunteer teachers are always welcome since there is always shortage of teachers. A minimum stay of one month is ideal but if you can only stay for a couple of days, it's better than nothing. Look for Alex at the Vang Vieng Organic Farm or send a message to Equal Education For All on Facebook. 

• SAELAO Project, (Nathong Village, 7km outside of Vang Vieng, near of Poukham Cave and the Blue Lagoon), Tel 020 2292-8630. SAELAO project is trying to set an example of sustainable development for local people. There are different projects including building, organic farming and teaching English to the locals. They are always looking for volunteers, but if you don't have time to volunteer you can visit their restaurant to have lunch & learn about the project.  

• FruitFriends, (info@fruitfriendslaos.org). A transparent organisation providing volunteers the opportunity to immerse in Lao society. FruitFriends profits are used to execute community activities, building schools, set-up youth movement, English classes, ... If you want to participate in a transparent organisation respecting its staff and following the law on labor FruitFriends is the place to be. More information on their website www.fruitfriendslaos.org  

• Zipline (Vang Vieng Adrenaline), Tham Nam Cave (10km north of Vang Vieng), Tel +856 20 5503 3665. Opens 09:00. Newly opened at Tham Nam (The Water Cave) is a western standard series of ziplines. A world away from the ziplines of old at the tubing bars. Set above the Water Cave it offers tourists a chance to venture into the countryside away from the bars. You can visit Elephant Cave & the Water Cave, swim and tube inside the cave and of course soar through the jungle. 
• Mountain Biking. One of the best ways to get around Vang Vieng and the surround villages is by mountain bike. Many outfits in town rent Giant bicycles for around 20,000 kip. There are three main treks to do in the area by bike. The most common is the ride out to Blue Lagoon and back, which goes along a fairly flat (but bumpy) dirt road west of town. Another trek is a 30km flat loop through the villages west of the Nam Song River, which also takes riders past Blue Lagoon and numerous caves. More adventurous riders can take an eastern loop, which goes over rolling hills. Fortunately, all three are extremely scenic. To best guide yourself, purchase the highly detailed "Hobo Map" of Vang Vieng, available at many hostels and guesthouses for around 20,000 kip.

Source http://wikitravel.org/en/Vang_Vieng